Here you can see the tubes going down along the power steering box. There's about 1/4" of clearance. Under power the motor twists away from the box though, so any amount of clearance is fine. Plug and wire clearance is great, although I had to bend the dipstick to get it around between the header tube and PS box. At the lower right of the pic, you can see where the #7 tube hit the outer sleeve of my column. It's not hard to shorten the outer sleeve though, and alot of guys didnt have this problem.

 

The collectors having only two pipes are more tall and skinny which allows it to fit nicely between the torsion bar and starter.  A stud can't be used on the starter because it wont slide forward far enough to remove. Bolts however, work just fine and the starter can be removed with the header in place. Here's also a nice place for a proportioning valve. The shifter cable was only temporary here. I've since moved it near the starter and up over the bellhousing.

 

The passenger header has lots of room around it. Nuf said here.

 

The passenger collector was only 1/8" from the torsion bar, so I had to grind the side of the collector a bit, but nothing major. Also, I should note here that 3" side exit exhaust fits without any custom bending, a length of straight pipe and 4 - 45's were all that was needed. Most likely cheaper than custom bent stuff. Another note...the good headers all have thick flanges. The header bolt kits offered are way too short for them, as you can see by the anti-freeze that leaked all over mine. I ended up using standard  1 1/2" bolts.

Be sure to also check the Tips page for useful info on exhaust.

 

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